NEWS

Updated 21 December 2007 

• HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!    I hope your 2007-2008 holiday season if filled with joy, excitement, and adventure.  This year, I decided to return to the U.S.A. to spend the holidays with people I love and who love me.  In case you want to know the “gory details” here they are:

  December 5th - arrive late into Las Vegas
  December 6 - 14th - Las Vegas.   I had a wonderful visit with my niece and her husband, Marie and Patrick, during their visit with me in Las Vegas on December 7-9. We have so much fun together. Friday night they arrived around 8:00 p.m. and were pretty tired. So, we had dinner at one of my favorite restaurants, Bootlegger; that has fabulous Italian food (almost as good as Rome) and live entertainment every night. Saturday, Marie wanted to explore a "happy hour" at a Russian Restaurant in Mandalay Bay that advertises the largest number of vodka's offered in the world...all set on an "ice bar."  To say the least, Marie and I enjoyed their "special" that included one martini and caviar...a quick nap for the two of them....then, they went to the "Celine Dion" show at the Coliseum in Caesar's Palace (it was my Christmas gift to them...I've already seen the show so I enjoyed a couple of hours of gambling). Marie cried through the first half of the show because it was so good and Celine sang all the songs Marie semi-professionally sings. After the show, we enjoyed a Japanese dinner and got into the new club "Pure." Had a great time and danced until 4:00 a.m. Unfortunately, the next day Marie was ill...the vodka may have counteracted some of her blood pressure medication. We spent the day laying around the house, talking, and watching Christmas DVDs. Outside of their visit, I did not have much fun in Las Vegas.  Doctors, dentists, Costco, and Home Depot have filled my time.
  December 14th - I departed Las Vegas at 8:36 a.m.; picked up my brother, Bill (not the brother coming to my boat), in Phelan, CA; and the two of us arrived at my parent's home in the Los Angeles area around noon. The rest of Bill's family and my other brother, Jeff, arrived around 4:00 p.m. and the eight of us went into”pierogi” production. (“Pierogi” is a traditional Polish stuffed egg-dumpling. This is egg batter rolled paper thin then stuffed with such wonderful fillings as apricot, cherry, cheese/raisins, sauerkraut, cheddar mash potato, and pepper jack cheese potato. The pierogi is then boiled to cook the dough. Before serving, it is fried golden in butter. Then topped with a mixture of sour cream and sugar or maple syrup. TERRIBLY FATTENING, BAD FOR YOUR HEALTH, but decadently delicious.)  We serve it at any family Christmas dinner with Polish Sausage. Unbelievably, we finish by 8:00 p.m.  What family fun!!! For the first time, I got a dose of Christmas Spirit!
  December 16th – What a super day.  It started with breakfast with Steve & Ginny Bigelow in Temecula, CA.  Steve and I have been friends since we were 2nd Lieutenants together at Hanscom AFB in 1980.  Steve then rejoined me as one of my key managers at the Defense Supply Center, Richmond, VA (2000 - 2002).   Steve & Ginny are supporting Ginny's 95 year old Grandmother that lives approximately 45 minutes away from my niece, Marie.  Following breakfast, Marie hosted a Christmas Bingo party for 25 of her favorite family and friends.  I won and lost a beautiful set of gingerbread houses.  Even though I did not walk away with a physical gift, I got to spend time with the special people in Marie’s life – they are a super group of people that she shared with me.  WHAT FUN!!! 
  December 16th - 19th – December 17^th Marie, Inoka, Anthony (Marie’s youngest brother’s oldest son), Patrick, and I went to DISNEYLAND.  I’m not sure who was more excited, 2-year old Inoka or I,  as we saw DISNEYLAND decked out in all its holiday splendor – including the 6:30 p.m. Christmas Parade and 9:30 p.m. fireworks.  December 18^th, Marie had to work so I drove down to have lunch with Christopher, (Marie’s older brother).  That night we wrapped gifts – more dose of Christmas spirit.  December 19^th, Marie and I went to the South Coast Winery Spa.  Marie and Patrick’s Christmas gift to me was a massage while sipping champagne & red wine….I think they know their Auntie Chris quite well….what a wonderful gift!
  December 19^th  – After the winery, I drove to Pam & Jay Freeberg’s lovely home in Corona, CA.  I was greeted by not only Pam and Jay, but also Carla (Mark – their son’s new lovely wife).  We always have so much fun together…they are a “real kick” and there is never enough time for us to discuss everything we want.  After a holiday ham dinner and lots of red wine, I crashed at their home to prepare for my early morning drive to Las Vegas.

  December 20^th - 22^nd  – More administrative things to do in Las Vegas, including updating this web site AND getting holiday cards out.

  December 23^rd  – Quite day with my parents playing the card game, Liverpool Rummy.
  December 24^th – 25^th  -Christmas Eve, I will be visiting my sister's daughter and her family for a family gathering of her group (eleven), my parents (two), and my youngest brother's family (five), yes eighteen people for dinner. Then, Christmas Day I will be driving my parents to my other brother's home to celebrate the holiday with this part of the "clan" (eleven), my parents (two), my brother's in-laws (two), and my youngest brother's family (five), and me….yes twenty-one people for dinner. With all this partying I will have to run a marathon to counter the calories!
  December 26th - drive to San Fernando Valley to visit with Ray & Mary Cancel and their children and their children's children.
  December 27th - go to Dana Point to have lunch with MOANA KUEWA's PM, Dave Harlow, and Salesperson, Eric Leishman; then drive to San Diego to visit with Eilis, Michael, & Ray Cancel (they are renovating Eilis' bathroom)
  December 28 - drive from San Diego to Las Vegas for one last doctor’s appointment...my flight to Altanta departs at 10:30 p.m. on December 29^th.
  December 29^th – 30^th  Fly from Las Vegas to Atlanta. Commute from Atlanta to Naples, FL.

  December 30^th – January 4th  Ring-in the New Year with my two of my best friends, Judi Graser and Nancy Chapman in the Naples, FL.

  January 4th-8th  January 4^th, I’m driving from Naples, FL, to Ft Lauderdale, FL, and spending the night with my Med Bound 2007 “buddies” Milt & Judy Baker (yes BLUEWATER is still in Barcelona – however they also have a place in FL).  January 5^th, I’m joining my Mallorcain friend, Gina, for lunch in Miami; then having dinner with Sophia Carroll in Ft Lauderdale.  January 6^th-7^th, I’m visiting with my Aunt Sandy (my mother and Sandy are first cousins) and her husband in Sarasota, FL.  January 7^th, I will drive back to Atlanta, GA and will hopefully visit with my friends, Mike and Linda Williams, before departing Atlanta for Barcelona on January 8^th.

  January 8^th – 9^th – Flying the 10+ hours from Atlanta, GA, to Barcelona, SPAIN

   

• New Crew onboard MOANA KUEWA - Bernie and June will be ending the employment on MOANA KUEWA on January 16, 2008.  Bernie has personal and professional requirements that are driving him back to the U.S.A.  I was so lucky to have Bernie as part of the crew during Med Bound 2007 and subsequently cruising in the Med.  He is a very competent person with tons of experience.  In the past, Bernie and June extensively cruised the Med on a Hinckley sailboat and both speak some Spanish.  June has polished every boat surface, plus organized every storage area.  Between Bernie and June, the boat has NEVER LOOKED BETTER.  I am going to miss them both as crew and as friends.

I was VERY CONCERNED about finding the right-type of replacement.  However, “when one door closes…another opens.”  My youngest brother, JEFFREY WALTER CHESKE, will become my new 1st Mate and Chief Engineer.  He LOVES everything associated with the sea: boating, scuba diving, snorkeling, kayaking, etc.  He has been a member of the crew on a fishing trawler off the California coast and is qualified to be a Scuba Diving Instructor.  In addition, he has owned and operated two machine shops.  Therefore, he brings a mechanical level of expertise that will greatly contribute to the operation and maintenance of MOANA KUEWA.   It is the perfect solution for MOANA KUEWA, L.L.C. and the two of us! 

• Thanksgiving in Barcelona – Personal  Bernie (1st Engineer & 1st Mate), June (his wife and performing as a “Steward” while she is here), a young British couple off another 80’ catamaran on the dock (who will watch the boat if all of us depart) and I went to the HARD ROCK CAFE for Thanksgiving Dinner.  Our meal was FABULOUS!!!  For $23.45 per person, the meal started with Caesar salad, it was followed by a huge plate of moist white and dark meat turkey, Pepperidge Farm Stuffing, garlic mashed potatoes, steamed broccoli, and a small container of cranberry “chutney” (I think….you could taste the cranberry…however it was mixed with spices I could not ID).  I asked if the chef was American, they said “no”, he was Catalonian (in Barcelona the people still consider themselves Catalonian and not Spanish…they even still retain their own language…all signs are in both Catalonian (first) and Spanish (second)). 

• Driving Tour along the eastern and southern coast of Spain to visit with David and Lowie Bock on SALTY DAWG (Nordhavn 55#04) in ALMERIMAR, SPAIN (Costa del Sol in the Andalusia Region).  (November 15^th – 19^th, 2007) - Personal.  This was a quick trip to visit with SALTY DAWG (N55#04) (one of the three Nordhavns that traveled together across the Atlantic Ocean as part of the “Med Bound 2007” rally), in Almerimar (near Almeria) in Costa del Sol (southern coast of Spain).  My original plan to “overnight” with Dave & Lowie Bock expanded to three nights and 2 ½ days because of their wonderful hospitality and generous offer to stay with them.  They are in a beautiful marina, surrounded by beaches, new condos, shops, and restaurants.  It was a 10-hour drive through the orange groves of Valencia, the rolling hills of Ste de la Almenara (that look a lot like the foothills near Sacramento), and the fabulous shorelines of the Costa Dorado, Costa del Azahar, Costa Blanco, and Costa del Sol.  I got to see the many seaside resort areas that fill the Spanish coastline that I had to bypass in the boat (now I know why they call it the “Costa del Concrete”).  I think it is WONDERFUL – most of the architecture is stucco topped by Monet tile roofs with a variety of exterior facades and colors!

From the moment I arrived on SALTY DAWG, Dave and Lowie had activities planned.  One hour after I stepped on-board, we were on our way to a restaurant in old town Almeria that is owned by an olive oil producer, contained a display explaining the rendering process, and featured a flamingo dancer at 2130 hrs every night.   Unfortunately, as far as we can tell from the Spanish speech, the flamingo dancer was ill.  However, the Spanish guitar and singer was wonderful.  The next day, Dave, Lowie, and “Danny” (their darling dog) took me on one of their favorite driving tours through the rural foothills north of Almerimar where we had a fabulous “meal-of-the-day” lunch (affordable and delicious – plus, one of the “best deals” in Spain – originally mandated during the Franco era to assure that workers could have an affordable lunch available to them).  The restaurant is in a charming hill-side town of Alcoea.  Dave and Lowie were greeted “by name” when we walked through the door.  The next day, an effervescent friend from Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA, (Sandy) was arriving.  So, I was “on my own” for most of the day.  I wanted to see the large seaport town of MALAGA that was 176 km west of Almerimar.  At the crack of dawn, I was off.  Three hours later (after skirting the shoreline), I arrived at the Alcazaba, a fortified citadel that is linked by a defensive wall to the Palace of Gibralfaro.  Alcazaba was constructed behind the tiered seating of the Roman theater and is an excellent example of Spanish Muslim architecture. Archaeologists have recognized that the restoration of the Alcazaba, which hardly a stone was left standing, as a great triumph of the vision on the part of master architects and restorers at the turn of the 20th century.  It has commanding views of massive harbor, marinas, and commercial shipping complexes.  I was unable to tour Gibralfara because I ran out of time.  Dave & Lowie scheduled a tour of one of the hydroponic farms in their area.  The Almeria area supplies a great deal of the vegetables for Europe.  It is an arid climate and is filled with plastic-covered structures that set up an ideal environment for growing.  The farm we toured featured cucumbers and a wide variety of tomatoes (including “black tomatoes” that are a favorite of the English – sweet and delicious).  Following the tour, Dave cooked an epicurean delight of seafood paella.  DELICIOUS!!!  Sandy brought “special American treats” with her including fresh bagels (you cannot find them in Spain).  Generously, Dave & Lowie shared their precious resource with us the next morning along with smoked salmon and cream cheese – yum.  I’m hoping they will allow me to return the hospitality by visiting MOANA KUEWA in Barcelona before we depart at the end of March.

• Driving Tour of the coastal region of NORTHERN SPAIN, the FRENCH & ITALIAN RIVIERA, northern and central ITALY (both coasts on the Tyrrhenian Sea & the Adriatic Sea)(October 24^th through November 4^th, 2007) - Personal.  My goal is to see as much of Europe as possible by sea and by land over the next two or three years.  Having MOANA KUEWA in a safe marina with Bernie and June onboard, I felt confident in leaving MOANA KUEWA, so I rented a car for my first of many “land tours.”

I completed a two week road tour of the French Riviera; met Juan (my new friend) for a four-day photo/journalist tour of the Italian region of Abruzzo (on the central east coast of Italy – across the Adriatic Sea from Croatia - where nine of us were treated like VIPs – greeted by every mayor and dignitary of every charming small town – fed, and fed, and fed the local specialties and wines – toured cheese factories, wineries, historical sites – in return, all they are hoping for are articles in publications in England, U.S.A., Spain,  and Australia to advertise this new packaged tour featuring the very cute Fiat 500 as the transportation town to town).  GREAT FUN!  Following the tour, I drove Juan from Abruzzo to an airport outside of Rome; continued my tour to Florence (one day is not enough – I MUST go back to Florence for at least four days); visited Aviano AFB in northeast Italy to resupply my boat with U.S.A. unique items (like 8” x 11” paper, paper towels, DVDs, Doritos, Decaf Coffee, Equal, etc); toured Genoa, Italy (to check-out the marinas); had lunch with boating friends of Bernie & June’s in Sovana, Italy (along the Italian Riviera), spent one night in Monaco (yes, I visited the famous casino – gorgeous but small – did not see any celebrities); walked through Marseille, France; and returned to MOANA KUEWA to conduct a sea trial to allow BCN diagnostic time on the engine.   Three days later, Bernie, June, and I went to a huge International Boat Show in Barcelona.  Other friends will be visited the boat over the following weekend.  Yes, life goes on.

• PORT FORUM MARINA, BARCELONA, SPAIN (September 21^st 2007 through March 29^th 2008).  MOANA KUEWA will remain protected in this lovely marina (www.portforum.net) for the 2007-2008 winter season.

BARCELONA – Personal.  What a FABULOUS city.  Barcelona is the Capital of the Catalonian Region of Spain and at one time was the Capital of the independent country of Catalonia.  The DK Eyewitness Travel Book describes Barcelona as one of the Mediterranean’s busiest ports that is more than the capital of Catalonia.  In culture, commerce, and sport it is on par with the greatest European cities.  The success of the 1992 Olympic games confirmed this to the world.  Toward the end of the 19^th century, Modernisme, a variant of Art Nouveau, was born in Barcelona.  It became a means of expression for Catalan nationalism through architecture and art.  Almost every street has statues, buildings, or some form of art work designed by the famous artist Antoni Gaudí I Cornet.  Old Town is one of the most extensive medieval city centers in Europe that contain seven museums and galleries, including the Museum Picasso; is traversed by the famous avenue, Las Ramblas (busy around the clock- my kind of place); and is replete with 14^th century mansions.  At the crack of dawn almost every day, I run a different 6–10 miles route.  Each run unveils more sites to explore in detail and exhibits the cultural diversity of the city.  

 

BARCELONA – Technical.   

• John Deere Engine Model 6081 Rear Main Engine Seal Replacement.  John Deere has again stepped up to the warrantee requirements by sending BCN to MOANA KUEWA to assess the problem.  After dock-side diagnostics and a sea trial, BCN determined that the rear main engine seal needed replacement FOR THE THIRD TIME!!!!  Again, the engine was detached from the ZF Transmission and the engine lifted and moved forward using a customized cart system (a cleaver approach to how to access the rear main engine seal without decoupling the transmission from the drive shaft or using hoists through the floor in the salon).  Bernie has been orchestrating this effort using his working knowledge of the Spanish language and technical expertise.  It was great having him onboard during this time.  On January 11^th, 2008 (after my return from the U.S.A.), we will conduct another sea trial to assess if the seal still leaks.  Only cruising time will tell.  Remember, the first leak appeared after 100 engine hours (resulting in replacement of the rear main engine seal in Dana Point, CA, September 2006); the second leak appeared 100 engine hours after the first replacement of the seal while in Mexico (resulting in replacement of the rear main engine seal at the PAE facility in Stuart, FL, April 2007); and the third leak appeared 75 engine hours after the second replacement of the seal while crossing the Atlantic Ocean during Med Bound 2007.

In PALMA, John Deere engaged an excellent firm called MAGIC BOAT to conduct extensive diagnostics.  Through the use of a micrometer during a sea test, MAGIC BOAT identified a problem with the #6 cylinder and piston that was causing over pressurization which they believed resulted in the rear main engine seal leak.  MAGIC BOAT disassembled the engine and replaced the faulty cylinder and piston.  The only question was if the existing seal was corrupted by the over pressurization.  The cruise from Mallorca to Barcelona showed the seal was corrupted resulting in the above described work. 

• Raritan Atlantes Freedom A8 Marine Toilet Control Board Replacement (all three heads).  Since December 2006, the master stateroom toilet would intermittently not stop fresh-water filling (this resulted in a 400 gallon “flood” of the head, master stateroom, galley, & stairs to engine room in the middle of the night between Florida and Bermuda before Marty Ellison caught the problem during his hourly engine check).   A month ago, the forward head experienced the same problem.  It was time to address the problem, although I purposely procrastinated because I was afraid of the potential damage to the wood and high-gloss finish around the toilets.  After telephone consultation with the technicians at Raritan and flush testing, it was determined that there potentially was a dual problem.  One was the electronic control unit malfunction and the second was the physical flushing mechanism (external flush handle and internal linking mechanism).  Raritan shipped replacement parts free of charge under the warrantee (for all new Nordhavn owners…it pays to fill out all of the warrantee cards during commissioning).  The only requirement was that I had to ship the defective parts back to Raritan (cost $86.90 by UPS from Las Vegas).  A professional carpenter removed the base and lifted the base.  Bernie replaced the control modules and flushing mechanism.  This was two days worth of effort.  I’m happy to tell you, there was no damage to the surrounding wood or finish (whew)!

ADVICE WHEN ORDERING A NORDHAVN – the bolts attaching the base of the toilet to the wood or granite cannot be removed without elevating the entire base. The nuts under the base are not secured and spin when trying to extract the bolt.  The nuts are not accessible through any of the access panels on the boat.  Therefore, when trying to remove the bolts securing the toilet to the base the bolt just spins freely.  Recommend that you request that Nordhavn fasten the nut to the bottom of the base during toilet installation.  That way, you can remove just the toilet for repair without having the nut fall into the bilge area or having to lift the entire base.

•  PORTO COLOM (Latitude 39°25'.4N and Longitude 03°15'.8E) to PORT FORUM MARINA in BARCELONA, SPAIN in the northeast corner of the mainland off COSTA BRAVA.  MOANA KUEWA departed Porto Colom on September 20^th for the overnight non-stop cruise.  It was time to take MOANA KUEWA to Barcelona where she will remain during the winter season.  Port Forum is less than two years old and provides security, consistent power, and an environment for boat repairs.  Unfortunately, the same pesky small main engine seal leak reappeared during our crossing. Plus, Bernie was anxious to get to Barcelona.  His lovely wife, June, arrived on October 3^rd.  She joined the crew of MOANA KUEWA as a steward.

• PORTO COLOM (Latitude 39°25'.4N and Longitude 03°15'.8E) to ALCUDIAMAR MARINA on the northeast corner of the Island of MALLORCA, in the Islands of BALEARES.  MOANA KUEWA departed Porto Colom on September 20^th.  Work on MOANA KUEWA was completed and it was time to “move-on” to rejoin GOLEEN (in Alcudiamar Marina) and BLUEWATER (anchored near Pollença) for one last look at Mallorca for the 2007 Med cruising season.

Alcúdiamar, Alcúdia, Pollença, and Formentor – Pleasure.  This corner of Mallorca hosts three blue water bays.  Milt & Judy Baker BLUEWAER said Pollença is their favorite anchorage in the Mediterranean to date.  It is gorgeous.  Bernie, Sonaia, and I drove from Alcudiamar to Formentor Point to feast our eyes on the 360 degree view of this quarter of Mallorca.  Milt, Judy, Sonaia, Bernie, and I enjoyed a mini-reunion at a charming restaurant overlooking sandcastles and an opposing view of Pollença bay.       

 

Side Trip to the Island of MENORCA in the Islands of BALEARES - Pleasure (September 26^th and 27^th).  Weather conditions did not allow MOANA KUEWA to cruise to Menorca as planned, so I decided to take a ferry from Alcudia to Ciutadella.  In two days and one night, I did a “circle island” tour of the Island.  Although it was another Baleares Island, it was different that Ibiza and Mallorca.  Menorca is less developed.  It has quaint bays featuring fishing towns turning into small resorts, many ancient historical sites, and two great ports, Ciutadella and Maó.  If you cruise into either ports, you have to watch for the ferries (it helps to know the arrival and departure schedule).  Even though you have to use caution in the approach, the reward of looking up at the towering walls topped with the Església Cathedral de Menorca Cathedral is well worth the trip.  On the southeast side of the Island is Maó is a large commercial harbor.  This harbor can accommodate any size boat, however it did not appeal to me.  The hilltop city of Maó was segmented and did not hold any “charm.”  

• PALMA (Latitude 39°33'.5N and Longitude 02°38'.5E) to PORTO COLOM (Latitude 39°25'.4N and Longitude 03°15'.8E) going back to a favorite place on the Island of MALLORCA, in the Islands of BALEARES, off the east coast of mainland SPAIN.      MOANA KUEWA departed PALMA on September 17^th for the non-stop 43 nm cruise (a total of 12,310 nm on the boat) that took 5 hours 45 minutes averaging 7-8 knots at approximately 1700 rpm.  After a fulfilling experience with the Varadero Palma Shipyard working with PAE, John Deere, and E3 (electronics and audio visual), the shipyard needed the slip space so MOANA KUEWA dropped anchor in the beautiful and protected Porto Colom bay.  This enabled John Deere to catch up with us to paint the engine and E3 to swap out the satellite dish box from the Greek NOVA TV to the Italian SKY ITALIA.  The English-speaking channels on the Greek NOVA TV were too limited.  SKY ITALIA offered a range of news, movies, history, discovery, and assorted programs.  A delightful feature is that all commercials are in Italian.  The Italian language sounds like singing all the time.  It is so melodious and the Italians are so impassioned about everything – it does not matter whether they are discussing politics or where to have coffee.  After a delightful four days completing boat work and hanging-out with my friend Sonaia (GOLEEN), MOANA KUEWA moved to Alcudiamar Marina on the northeast corner of Mallorca.

PALMA - Pleasure (August 28th through September ?).  The Varadero Palma Shipyard is less than 1 ½ blocks from the soaring Gothic cathedral (begun in 1230 and finished in 1587) and the Almudaina Palace of PALACIO de MARIVENT (built by the Moors, quickly taken over by the conquering Christians, and now is the summer residence of Spain’s King & Queen).  In addition, we have easy access to all of PALMA.  This has given Bernie and I the opportunity to exercise every morning (before the work-crews arrive) (he is an accomplished “speed-walker” and I’m still “jogging”).  After work hours and weekends, Bernie and I have been exploring PALMA.

We both LOVE exploring by walking.  Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, and Christians have all settled on Mallorca and left clear signs of their influence.  For example, two of most beautiful garden-filled sites in PALMA are the ARAB BATHS and PALACIO de MARIVENT; plus, we’ve seen ROMAN walls and city remains (dating from the 1^st Century) scattered throughout.  In addition, we have toured the: Museum of Mallorca, home of the famed Spanish artist – J. Torrents Lladó, and Convent of Saint Clare (founded in 1256 as a monastery for Franciscan nuns where the daughters of the wealthiest families of PALMA were cloistered).  On Sunday, September 2^nd, we took a two-hour Segway Tour from PALMA up the hillside to the BĖLLVER CASTLE that towers majestically above Palma’s Bay (its circular structure is unique throughout Spain).  I new experience for us both!

The weekend of September 8^th & 9^th, we are renting a car and touring.  During this tour, we plan on visiting Milt & Judy on BLUEWATER in Soller (in the northwest corner of Mallorca) and Chris & Sonaia on GOLEEN at the Marina Alcúdiamar (in the north east corner of Mallorca).  (NOTE: Chris & Sonaia are planning on “wintering” GOLEEN in this marina and have bought a condo in the heart of the historic section of Palma.)

If the davit arrives and the John Deere engine is repaired by September 20th, MOANA KUEWA will cruise over to CORSICA (a French Island off the west coast of Italy’s boot – north of Sardinia) before arriving for the winter at the PORT FORUM MARINA in Barcelona, Spain. 

PALMA Technical  - VARADERO PALMA SHIPYARD.  MOANA KUEWA pulled into the Varadero Palma Shipyard on schedule at 1005 hrs on August 28^th.  Pacific Asian Enterprises (PAE) made the reservation – thank goodness – there was not one reservation anywhere else in PALMA.  I’m delighted with the efficiency and effectiveness of the shipyard.  Less than three hours after arrival, we had workers on the boat.

PAE warrantee items:

John Deere 6081 AFMl75 Marine Engine – through the combined efforts of PAE, CASCADE DEISEL ENGINES out of Seattle, WA, USA (the firm that is the approved subcontractor to PAE and is responsible for MOANA KUEWA’s engine), John Deere Europe, and MAGIC BOATS in Santa Ponsa, Mallorca, Balearics, Spain; there are ongoing diagnostics of why there is a perpetual oil leak (after replacing the rear main engine seal twice – once in September 2006 and another time in April 2007) and a more-than-usual consumption of oil during the Med Bound 2007 crossing from Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA, to Gibraltar.  I’ll post results once known.

Airtex Davit Arm – replacement of the davit arm after a catastrophic failure in Stuart, FL - the metal in the base of the extension folded like a piece of ribbon (this was after one night of suspending the 800 lb tender 5’ off the deck so the PAE workperson could fix a leak around the tender’s front stanchion in the morning).  PAE determined it was a manufacturing defect, worked with Airtex to construct a replacement arm, and arranged for the installation at Varadero Palma Shipyard.  The davit arm is “in transit” between Taiwan and Palma.

Northern Lights 20kw Generator – leak in the injector pump fitting.  The technicians say it is missing an “o-ring.”

TRAC Stabilizer – Small leak at the fitting below the gauge – cannot stop leak by tightening the fitting – leaked throughout the 2nd and 3rd leg of the MedBound 2007 cruise.  This is again a possible o-ring issue.

Atlantes Freedom Household Style Marine Toilet Model A8 in Master Stateroom Head – periodically the fresh water fill does not stop without manually initiating a second flush by pulling the handle.  This problem began during Leg 1 of MedBound 2007 where MOANA KUEWA’s MSR Head, MSR, Galley, and Engine Room Stairs/Base was flooded with approximately 400 gallons of fresh water before discovery.

Salon Table – the table will not lock firmly in place nor raise/lower.  After hydraulics experts disassembled the table base, it was discovered that the key was bent (this was cause by the inadequacy in the strength of the key).  Varadero Palma modified the key to strengthen it.  It works GREAT now.  (Just one of those little irritants.)

ALCOM warrantee items:

BOSE Lifestyle SA-3 Stereo Amplifier – Zone 2 sound systems failed.  During diagnostics, found one amplifier smoking (yes….an indication of a slight electrical fire).  After switching amplifiers, MOANA KUEWA has partial sound system capability.  Alcom is working with E3, Palma, to replace amplifier and test system.

American Custom Yachts warrantee items:

CRUISAIR Air Conditioning System Water Pump – Newly installed second water pump is leaking salt water (installed by American Custom Yachts Subcontractor Whiticar Boat Works, FL,USA).   In addition, installation of a valve was required so one or the other pump can be isolated. 

PAE warrantee items still outstanding:

Bow Thruster – the battery servicing the bow thruster was low in voltage caused by the “Blue Sea” solenoid not operating to continually charge the batteries.  The only way to maintain the battery charge is to continuously keep the link to the house batteries in the “on” position.  It was assessed that either the “Blue Sea” solenoid has failed therefore needs replacement AND/OR the wiring is faulty.  PAE has deferred this warrantee item until they can locate a qualified dealer.

Gel-Coat Yellowing – After a great deal of discussion on the Nordhavn Owner’s Web Site, throughout the summer of 2007, PAE has not offered any insight or solutions on this ongoing problem.  This is a “LATENT DEFECT” that is affecting most of the Nordhavns manufactured in China.  PAE has deferred this warrantee item until they can provide a solution.  THIS ISSUE WILL NOT GO AWAY BY IGNORING IT!

NEW WORK (Owner’s Option) – lots of “little-enhancements”:

Installation of a WiFi Antenna to Lower Starboard Spreader & Install/Configure Yacht Spot – affordable/free WiFi on the boat is a luxury MOANA KUEWA cannot do without.  It has been a challenge to place heavy laptops into a water proof backpack/luggage, “put-put” to shore using the 4-stroke Yamaha motor mounted on my emergency 80lb dingy, land in a non-surge area to remove ourselves and keep the laptop(s) dry, find an Internet Café that will let you “hook-up”, etc., etc., etc.    

Purchase of a Modem and Vodafone Spain Package – Milt Baker of BLUEWATER discovered this wonderfully affordable capability.  Within Spain, MOANA KUEWA gets 5 GB for a set fee of €80 – roaming outside of Spain is 100MB for €175 but will work anywhere in the Western and Eastern Med.

Installation of a Satellite Dish Box – MOANA KUEWA’s team has been “news-starved.”  This should be remedied shortly by the Greek NOVA TV viewing card and Topfield TF6060 2ci receiver & Cam that links to the European Satellites System for coverage throughout the Western and Eastern Med.

Modification of the Turnbuckles for Anchor and Tender – Instead of the standard nuts to hold the turnbuckles in-place, Bernie had them modified to act like “wing-nuts.”  Much easier to tighten and loosen.

Professional Waxing & Buffing – After crossing the Atlantic and being “at-anchor” in the Med much of the time, MOANA KUEWA really needed some tender-loving-care.  Varadero Palma Shipyard very skilled crew that is working very hard at making her look “like new” (and for an affordable price).  (NOTE:  There is something “sensual” about the feel and look of properly polished gel-coat....yes, it’s been a long time since I’ve had a lover.)

• PORTO COLOM (Latitude 39°25'.4N and Longitude 03°15'.8E) to PALMA (Latitude 39°33'.5N and Longitude 02°38'.5E) still on the Island of MALLORCA, in the Islands of BALEARES, off the east coast of mainland SPAIN.      We departed PORTO COLOM on August 27^th for the non-stop 43 nm cruise (a total of 12,267 nm on the boat) that took 5 hours 45 minutes averaging 7-8 knots at approximately 1700 rpm.  Puerto de Palma is comprised of commercial (cruise ships/huge high-speed ferries/cargo), naval, fishing, and yachting facilities.  It is in a huge bay and is one of the largest collective yachting centers in the Mediterranean that has berthing for several thousand yachts.  With its unobstructed wide entrance, it can be entered in all weathers and provides good shelter.  It is also imbedded in the City of PALMA.  We dropped anchor at LAS ILLETAS ANCHORAGE (a set of small islands located at the southwest side of the PALMA HARBOR) for the night.

• PORTO COLOM (August 19th through August 27th).  MOANA KUEWA was greeted by old friends of Bernie, Carol & Gus Hancock on INDIGO (custom-made 50’ sailboat).  They were gracious enough to invite both Bernie and I to their boat for a delicious salmon dinner with lots of Vino Blanco (white wine) and Vino Tinto (red wine).  This made for lively conversation of everyone's extensive world travels.    

On August 20^th, it was our plan to pre-position ourselves for BLUEWATER’s and GOLEEN’s arrival on August 20^th (and get to know INDIGO a little better) by hosting a “Mexican Fiesta” on MOANA KUEWA.  Bernie made “killer” burritos and nachos.  I made sour cream/green chili rice and mango salsa.  Of course, there were Margaritas for all. Olay!

PORTO COLOM is a charming sea-side village with ample anchoring, beaches, and restaurants. With so many friends, we were able to “mix-and-match” a myriad of activities that included cocktail hours aboard different boats, kayaking and walking tours, an on-shore “group dinner” on a Saturday night, topped with a “grand finale Brazilian Barbeque” dinner on-board GOLEEN.      

• CALA SANTA PONSA (Latitude 39°31'.1N and Longitude 02°28'.3E) to PORTO COLOM (Latitude 39°25'.4N and Longitude 03°15'.8E) still on the Island of MALLORCA, in the Islands of BALEARES, off the east coast of mainland SPAIN.      All three Nordhavn’s departed Cala Santa Ponsa on August 19^th.  BLUEWATER and GOLEEN cruised south for an overnight stay in a National Reserve area on the Island of Cabrera.  MOANA KUEWA made a quick 52 nm cruise to PUERTO COLOM.

• CALA LLONGA (Latitude 38°57'.2N and Longitude 01°31'.6E) to CALA SANTA PONSA (Latitude 39°31'.1N and Longitude 02°28'.3E) on the Island of MALLORCA, in the Islands of BALEARES, off the east coast of mainland SPAIN.      We departed the Island of IBIZA on August 19^th for the non-stop 68 nm cruise (a total of 12,224 nm on the boat) that took 9 hours averaging 7-8 knots at approximately 1700 rpm.  It was a welcome sight to enter the beach-lined area of Santa Ponsa & see BLUEWATER and GOLEEN resting at anchor.  We reacquainted ourselves with Milt & Judy and Chris & Sonaia during this one-night overlap during a cocktail party hosted by BLUEWATER. 

• CALA de PORT ROIG & CALA LLONGA (Latitude 38°57'.2N and Longitude 01°31'.6E) on the Island of IBIZA, in the Islands of BALEARES, off the east coast of mainland SPAIN. (August 10th through August 19th).  My new 1st Mate/Chief Engineer (don't worry - he is happily married) is a real "pro" when it comes to anchoring and we've been "at-anchor" in two lovely coves on the south-side of Island of Ibiza: Cala Port Roig and Cala Llonga.  Unfortunately, we were not able to secure a place in any marina.  Therefore, we inflated the smaller dingy with the 4-stroke engine and are using it to shuttle to and from the charming beach area of Calla Llonga.  From Cala Llonga, we were able to take the local bus (for 1.30€) to the city of IBIZA. The old section of the town of Ibiza is very nice...it is built around (and in) an old fort mounted on a peak overlooking the marinas and harbor.  This is the peak tourist season, so the high-speed ferries and mega-yachts are in and out of this area constantly.   The town is full of "perfect-body" young people that do not mind the transparent clothing (or no clothing).  Unfortunately, weather conditions at 1:00 a.m. to 3:00 a.m. (when you’d travel into the city if IBIZA to sample the world-renowned disco nightlife were too poor to dingy to shore – BOO HOO).  Fortunately, Cala Llonga had a local festival from August 15^th through August 18^th.  From MOANA KUEWA, were able to enjoy a multitude of concerts, flamingo dancing, and breathtaking fireworks!  (One of the joys of cruising the Med.)   

While anchored in Cala Llonga, Dave received notification that his ailing mother passed-away.  On August 16^th, Dave and Mary Ann departed the boat around 7:00 a.m. to take a taxi to a ferry from San Antonio to Barcelona (where they returned to the USA).  His mother passed away in her sleep.  She was 91 and lived a good life.  Dave said she was a “GREAT MOM.”  Regretfully, they will not be rejoining us in the Med any time soon.

• VALENCIA, SPAIN (Costa del Azahar) (Latitude 39°25'.48N and Longitude 00.17'.91W) to CALA de PORT ROIG (Latitude 38°52'.1N and Longitude 01°18'.3E) on the Island of IBIZA, in the Islands of BALEARES, off the east coast of mainland SPAIN.      We departed Valencia on August 10^th for the non-stop 86 nm cruise (a total of 12,060 nm on the boat) that took 7½ hours averaging 7-8 knots at approximately 1700 rpm.  This was a very easy passage during daylight hours.  The seas and winds were calm and we switched to a two-person watch cycle throughout the cruise because of all the “boat traffic.”  Throughout the entire passage, we saw two dolphins.  It is amazing how the Mediterranean has so little sea life.  The only evidence that there is still some fish are the few fishing trawlers and small fishing boats.  If you want diving or sea life, definitely cruise the west coast of the Americas (North, Central, and South) or the Caribbean.     

My new 1st Mate/Chief Engineer (don't worry - he is happily married) is a real "pro" when it comes to anchoring and we've been "at-achor" in two lovely coves on the south-side of Island of Ibiza in the Baleares Islands: Calla Port Roig and Calla Llonga.  The old section of the town of Ibiza is very nice...it is built around and in an old fort mounted on a peak overlooking the marinas and harbor.  This is the peak tourist season, so the high-speed ferries and mega-yachts are in and out of this area constantly.  Unfortunately, we are not able to secure a place in a marina.  Therefore, we inflated the smaller dingy with the 4-stroke engine and are using it to shuttle to and from the charming beach area of Calla Llonga.  Tonight or tomorow night, I'm putting on my dancing shoes and Bernie & I are going to experience the discos in Ibiza - I hear it is quite and experience.  The town is full of "perfect-body" young people that do not mind the transparent clothing (or no clothing).  The rest of detailed information is on my web-site under "news", if you're interested www.moanakuewa.net.

• CITY OF VALENCIA, SPAIN (July 28^th through August 8^th).  MOANA KUEWA has a “side-tie” by a modern floating dock with two 32 amp hook-ups and full bathroom facilities (important since MOANA KUEWA had to replace the HEADHUNTER MACH 5 Fresh Water Pump – this is the second pump failure within a year).  Besides carrying a spare pump, another intelligent choice was installing the second shore-power conversion capability that allows us to use the air-conditioning units throughout the boat.  It is ALMOST AS HOT AS HELL ITSELF (95-99 degrees with high humidity and a searing sun).  Because of the humidity, even the mornings and evenings are barely tolerable; however the lure of the fabulous city still makes us brave the elements.  We are in the America’s Cup North Marina and have it practically all to ourselves (since almost everyone that was here for the 32^nd America’s cup had departed).  There is evidence everywhere of what a well-organized operation Valencia ran and what type of investment they made to structure the city and marinas to accommodate this type of event.  Very impressive.  All four of us are talking about making reservations and returning in July 2009 for the 33^rd America’s Cup Race.

  Valencia is Spain’s third largest city and is a dynamic, modern, fabulous place that still has a Historic City Center.  The city was founded by the Romans in 138BC and later conquered by the Moors.  It was captured by the famed “El Cid” in 1096, retaken by the Moors, and finally recaptured by Jaime I, the Conqueror, in 1238 to become absorbed into the kingdom of Aragon.  Inside the Cathedral, a chapel holds an agate cup, claimed to be the HOLY GRAIL (the cup used by Christ at the Last Supper).  According to legend, it arrived in Valencia from Jerusalem by way of San Juan de la Pena monastery in Aragon to protect it and it has not moved since.  In direct contrast to the historic section, there are three of the most futuristic buildings I’ve ever seen: the L’Hemisferic (IMAX Theater), Museo de Las Ciencias Principe Felipe (Science Museum), and the L’Oceanograpfic (a multitude of Aquariums within one facility).  Transportation is very much like Washington D.C. with a Metro that is networked to trolleys and buses.  Dining has been fun with our access to the many contemporary facilities lining the America’s Cup Marinas, the beach-front open-air restaurants, tapas in the historic section, etc.  Most places open for lunch at Noon and close at 2:00 p.m. to reopen for dinner at 9:00 p.m. and serve until midnight.  (If I cannot get a reservation in Barcelona for the winter [I’m #1 on the “wait-list”], Valencia is a definite second choice.) 

•  ESTEPONA, SPAIN (Costa del Sol) (Latitude 36.24’.8N and Longitude 05.09’.4W) to VALENCIA, SPAIN (Costa del Azahar) (Latitude 39.25’48N and Longitude 00.17’.91W)  Bernie Francis (MOANA KUEWA, L.L.C.’s Professional 1^st Mate as of July 15, 2007) took terrific care of MOANA KUEWA and knew half the town in the six-days David, Mary Ann, and I left him alone.  After one “admin” day, we departed Estepona on July 26^th for the non-stop 399 nm cruise (a total of 11,974 nm on the boat) that took 2 ¼ days averaging 7-8 knots at approximately 1700 rpm (running at 1700 rpm instead of the normal 1400 rpm was a test to see if it prevented the “soot” issue associated with the N55 dry stack – this test is a result of what Marty Ellison was told by the John Deere tech, what “Lugger Bob” advocated during the MedBound 2007 seminar, and an article in Latitude 38).  It worked.  Unlike all the cruises performed in the past, there was no soot on the KVH domes or radars or decks (oh joy).  We quickly fell into routine of 3-hours watches and were kept busy by approximately 95 AIS targets at all times.  Mary Ann had a few anxious moments during her watch around 11:30 p.m. on the second night when she spotted a dim red light approximately ½ of a mile dead ahead that turned out to be sail boat with no radar signature.  Her quick reaction prevented this “near miss” (thank you Mary Ann). MOANA KUEWA cruised along the Costa del Sol, Costa Blanca, Costa del Azahar to Valencia.  It was too cool to cross the “Prime Meridian” twice.  Valencia is situated in the center of the Spanish Mediterranean coastline (east coast of mainland Spain).

•  OVERALL COMMENTS ABOUT THE COSTA DEL SOL AND THE INLAND ANDALUCIAN REGION OF SPAIN  The Costa del Sol (that is the entire southern coast of Spain from Gibraltar to Cabo de Gata) (also called by some the “Costa del Concrete” because of all the development) - is one of the most beautiful areas in the world.  The coastal towns we’ve visited (Gibraltar, Sotogrande, Estepona, Puerto de Jose Banus, & Malaga) and the inland Andalucian cities (Ronda, Seville, and Granada) contain a blending of ancient Roman, Moorish, and Christian history/architecture/traditions/cuisine with modernization/growth/new-found-prosperity.  Many attribute Spain’s economic recovery to its membership in the European Union that has infused funding into a myriad of infrastructure projects.  Besides the funding, Spain has enjoyed growth in tourism plus real estate purchases by Europeans located in colder climates in the north.

I’m IN LOVE WITH SPAIN.  The coastal areas offer soft-sand beaches, “boardwalks” that contain restaurants/showers, dining within the marinas, well-stocked markets, unique dining using locally-grown produce, plus festivals of all types. The inland landscape is “breathtaking” with white-washed towns imbedded in the side of mountainous slopes, rolling acres of olive tree groves, fields of sunflowers, occasional Roman ruins, and the castles/palaces towering over almost every valley.  Besides the geographic layout, Spain has some of the most beautiful/handsome people I’ve ever seen. The Spanish people are warm, hospitable, and helpful. The only problem is that they all speak Spanish!  My language skills are sorely lacking so I’m relying on Bernie and Mary Ann for most of my communication when we are together.  If alone, I can usually find one or two bilingual people to help with communications but it is a bit of a problem. 

•  TOWN OF GRANADA, INLAND IN THE ANDALUCIAN REGION OF SPAIN   Take the tour-guides seriously...you do not want to drive in Granada!  We spent 1 ½ hours hitting one dead-end or one-way street after another (even with Mary Ann's excellent navigation skills guiding Chris' driving efforts) until we selected Hotel Triunpo (because we were -parked in front of it – hot and somewhat lost).  Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than smart…what a find....$75 Euros per night that included breakfast and air-conditioning, plus two channels of English-speaking TV (so we could watch the Democratic debates on CNN that started at 11:30 p.m. and lasted until 12:30 a.m.)!  It turned out to be a great hotel with super dining/service.  

The challenge was to find tickets to the “Alhambra.”  The only way to purchase tickets to the famed "Alhambra" is through the BBVA Banks or at the Alhambra Ticket Office.  There was not a ticket to be had in Estepona, Ronda, or Seville.  Upon check-in, Chris hiked the sturdy up-hill climb to research when to get in line the next morning.  She immediately lucked into getting tickets and we were able to tour The Alhambra from 5:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. (it does not get dark until 10:15 p.m. in Spain).  The Alhambra was built under Ismail I, Yusuf I, and Muhammad V, the caliphs (Moorish Rulers) to create their idea of paradise on earth.  They achieved their goal and the unbelievable beauty is open to whomever is willing to pay the $10 Euro/per person price.  We dined at the Parador (that is the hotel located within the historic Alhambra) by a dancing fountain in a shaded courtyard served by a young Spanish Woman dressed in traditional garb.  Perfect!

• CITY OF SEVILLE, INLAND IN THE ANDALUCIAN REGION OF SPAIN  Dave, Mary Ann, and I checked into the "Pasarel Hotel" (at a fabulous $60 Euros per night for a double with air conditioning) that is located in the historic Santa Cruz district directly across from the Plaza de Espaina next to the gorgeous Parque Maria Luia.  Everything was within walking distance.  We could have spent a week or two, however "scoped" our sightseeing to the Seville Cathedral and La Grialda (that occupies the site of a great Mosque built by the Almohads in the late 12th century and is the third largest Cathedral in Europe); the Hospital de los Vernables (past home of elderly priests begun in 1675 after a great plague); the Real Alcazar (a number of royal palaces and gardens built by the Sultan of Almohad, Pedro I, Isabel I, and Carlos I); Parque Maria Luisa completed in 1734; Seville's most famous hotel - Alfonso XIII dating from the 1920s (where Mary Ann and Chris spent a few hours sipping martinis on a hot afternoon while Dave took a nap); Torre de Oro (a Moorish tower built in the 13th century to protect the port that now is the Maritime Museum - MOANA KUEWA is as long as the PINTA - amazing); and enjoyed a couple of nights of fine-dining along the Guadalquivir River.

• TOWN OF RONDA, INLAND IN THE ANDALUCIAN REGION OF SPAIN  Ronda is adequately described in the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide for Spain as, "One of the most spectacular cities in Spain”.  Ronda sits straddling a precipitous limestone cleft… it spans the centuries with historic buildings such as the walls and gate of Xijara (Alcijara); the Ronda Bullring (one of the oldest in Spain); the Mondragon Palace built in the Mudejar and Renaissance styles; Arab Baths; the Palace of the Marquis de Salvatierra; the new bridge that is a gigantic engineering feat of the XVIII century to keep the city safe from the raging river and past enemies, etc..  There are fabulous cafes and restaurants everywhere – all with views.  Dave and Mary Ann stated they could live in Ronda.

• GIBRALTAR (Latitude 36.08’.92N and Longitude 05.21’.99) to ESTEPONA, SPAIN (Costa del Sol) (Latitude 36.24’.8N and Longitude 05.09’.4W) This extremely short cruise that took less than a ½ day and brought us into the small resort town of Estepona.  Although currently being developed, it held a “small-town community” atmosphere with the added attraction of many local festivities and a beautiful beach boardwalk.  Also, Bernie discovered a vendor within the marina that made his #1 favorite dish – doner kabab – wrapped in durum (Turkish).

• Med Mooring.  Our first Med Mooring experience went well due to preplanning, Bernie’s expertise, calm conditions, and a “double-wide” space to enter.  Bow and stern thrusters are not a luxury but a MUST in Med Mooring.  It is a delicate balance of keeping your aft off the cement walls, moving the “slime lines” to the front hawse-cleats (these are lines that remain in the water attached to huge cement blocks that hold the bow of your boat in place and off the fixed cement docks to your aft), tightening the “slime lines” adequately, secure the aft area with the proper placement of lines, spring-lines, metal springs, chains, “eye-with-a-thimble” line, etc.etc.etc – (thank you Scott Strickland, Dave Plumb, and Andy/Pam Wall).

• GIBRALTAR (Latitude 36.08’.92N and Longitude 05.21’.99)  Gibraltar is still very English, all three square miles of it.  It has a long-history of strategic value to England especially during World War II and is now considered an English resort destination spot.   The “Rock” is honeycombed with tunnels where the invasion of North Africa was planned by Gen Dwight Eisenhower and many military activities took place throughout the years.  St Michael’s cave is huge and now serves as an entertainment arena but was once a hospital and “safe-haven.”  Throughout Gibraltar, we found the good-sized Rock Apes (Barbary Macaques) enjoying life and tolerating tourists.  One got “up-close-and-personal” with Chris when he snuck-up behind her and pulled her long-sleeved Richmond Marathon T-Shirt from her backpack.  Deciding it did not quite fit him; he dropped it by her side and slowly ambled off.

• End of MedBound 2007 & Who is Where.  MedBound 2007 officially ended with a dinner at “The Little Mermaid” Restaurant located within the Gibraltar Marina on July 13^th.  We all had “mixed emotions” about ending such a great adventure and going onto different destinations.  MOANA KUEWA stayed an extra day in Gibraltar to participate in an “on board” dinner on SALTY DAWG (featuring a delicious “fish soup” made from their fresh catches) on July 14^th before we departed early on July 15^th for a quick cruise to Estepona in the Costa del Sol, Spain.  All the time we spent together since Ft Lauderdale has been a pure pleasure.

BLUEWATER. Milt and Judy departed around five days after us and stopped at Sotogrande where they had dinner with a delightful couple, Sonia & Christopher (owners of GOLEEN - N57 that came to the Med as part of the NAR). BLUEWATER & GOLEEN plan to cruise around the Baleares Islands throughout August and MOANA KUEWA will try to catch-up with them there.  Milt and Judy had a frightening experience while we were at anchor in Puerto Torrent, a cala (cove) near Puerto de San Antonio on the island of Ibiza. They awoke on Sunday, July 29th, to discover that during the night thieves boarded their boat while they were sleeping and made off with three laptops, a cell phone, an old camera, an iPod and Milt’s wallet.  Milt and Judy never heard them and thankfully the thieves were after goods and not trouble.  But what a “hassle” canceling all credit cards, closing and reopening bank accounts, getting new cell phones, etc. all by “long-distance.”

SALTY DAWG.  When I asked the location of SALTY DAWG, Milt said he did not have a clue.  The only communication that he had with them (after their “quick decision” to depart Gibraltar) was one cryptic e-mail telling him they have changed their wintering destination from Barcelona to Almeria, Spain.  As David Bock said in his e-mail to Milt, "Almerimar is very nice and we were told by many that it is the last bargain nice marina on the Spain coast. Lot of Brits work in the shops and gave Dave and Lowie much advice and recommendations on the liveaboards during the off season."  I join Milt is saying I'm sorry we won't have all three Med Bound yachts at Port Vell.  We all liked Dave and Lowie, Dennis and Esther, and the dog “Danforth” (cute name isn’t it) very much.  Hope they let us know where they are so we can try to catch up with them sometime

• TOWN OF HORTA (Latitude 38.31.963N Longitude 28.37.493W) on the island of FAIAL in the AZORES to GIBRALTAR (Latitude 36.08’.92N and Longitude 05.21’.99)  MOANA KUEWA departed Horta on 19JUN07 and arrived in Gibraltar on 10JUL07, completing 1126 nm, which was the 3^rd and final leg of the Med Bound 2007 rally.  What a welcome sight the Rock of Gibraltar was after the last leg of the MedBound 2007 journey!  As welcome as it was, we were a little disappointed that the top of the rock was completely shrouded in clouds.  This prevented the MedBound 2007 boats from taking the dramatic shots similar to those of the NAR (whine…whine…whine).

Most of the cruise was uneventful until 08-09JUL where the weather conditions turned into a storm estimated a Beauford Scale 7 & 8 (gale conditions with winds at 28-40 knots and 13.5 to 25 foot waves).  At 0105 hrs (1:05 a.m.) on 08JUL07, a huge wave hit the aft port side of MOANA KUEWA sending approximately 15-20 gallons of blue-water crashing down the vent (Chris was sitting on the other side of the lazzarret door trying to find the source of a salt-water leak into the inverter control panel box when she heard the crash of water, looked around the doorway, and saw the wall of water.)   After a quick assessment that the bilge pump was handling the excess water and there was no damage to the drive shaft or engine, Chris came upstairs to discover all the team members were up because they were thrown from their beds.  We think we must have sustained a 30 to 35 degree roll – THIS REALLY GETS YOUR ATTENTION!  Chris resumed control of the helm while Bernie pull out the equipment and spare parts that were dripping with salt water (again, thank you John Hoffman for inspiring me to shrink-wrap spare parts originally housed in cardboard, to Dave Plumb who took the time to secure all items before departure, and to Bernie who performed a comprehensive assessment of any damage [none] and a clean-up operation).  That back port aft area was stuffed with electronic and mechanical items.

• ARUBA to ST THOMAS, USVI  “Moana Kuewa” started the non-stop 440 nm cruise (total of 6245 nm on the boat) by departing ARUBA on 14FEB07.  We were lucky to catch a good “weather window” for our passage.  Unlike the pounding “Moana Kuewa” took during the cruise from San Blas, Panama, to Aruba; we had two days of 4-7 foot waves spaced at 4-6 seconds with 15-20 knot winds (a little uncomfortable but we did not have to “hang on for dear life”) and two days of calmer conditions with 3-5 foot waves spaced at 4-7 seconds with 7-15 knot winds.  At 1730 hrs on 17FEB07, we docked at the new Yacht Haven Marina on the east end of St. Thomas Harbor (near the town of Charlotte Amalie).  “Moana Kuewa” looked tiny next to the fabulous mega-yachts (including RISING SUN) and cruise ships surrounding it.  Unfortunately, the power supply in this marina is structured for mega-yachts with 100 amp hook-ups ONLY.  It would have cost us $2,700. to buy a transformer (an electrical cord that would split the 100 amp service to two 50 amp hook-ups) and we’d have to have it shipped (there are none in the island).  So we moved to Crown Bay Marina located on the west side of Charlotte Amalie.  This is a cute full-service marina with security.  On 22FEB07, Mike departed for a month’s trip to St Thomas-Las Vegas-China-Hawaii-Las Vegas-St Thomas and returned 22MAR07.  I kept myself busy by taking the 100-ton Masters-Captain’s Licensing Course and related test from 03-14MAR07.  In addition, I completed the three courses (First Aid/CPR, Firefighting, and Survival) required for the STCW certification and FCC licensing test.  This completed of all the educational requirements that will allow me to apply for the formal U.S. Coast Guard license.  After all the coursework, two of my very best friends, Dr. Judi Graser and Nancy Chapman, arrived to help me celebrate.  The three of us covered almost every inch of St. Thomas and St John!  

• ARUBA.CURACAO.BONAIRE   The Renaissance Marina in Aruba was gorgeous.  It is located in the heart of Orangestad and is co-located with two Renaissance Hotels that offered three pools, swim-up bars, restaurants, and two casinos.  We enjoyed the “sun and fun” of Aruba for nine days before cruising to Curacao.  Jeff, my youngest brother, and I had a terrific time “shore diving” off Captain Don’s Habitat in Bonaire (Mike stayed with the boat in Curacao) and the six “boat dives” were great (I still think Grand Cayman and Tahiti are just a little better diving – however, Bonaire’s orientation to scuba diving makes it unique).  This was the first time Jeff dove in clear, warm, blue water (he has done hundreds of dives off the California coast wearing a full wet suit)…plus, it was his first time seeing extensive healthy coral reefs.  He LOVED it!  We cruised back to Aruba on 12FEB07 to enjoy Aruba a little more and get Jeff to the airport.

• SAN BLAS (Panama) to ARUBA  “Moana Kuewa” completed the non-stop 565 nm cruise (total of 5606 nm on the boat) by departing the SAN BLAS ISLANDS on 26JAN07 and arriving at the Renaissance Marina in ORANGESTAD, ARUBA on 30JAN07.    Milt Baker, N47 Bluewater, (and others) warned us that significant trade-winds and high sea conditions would be hitting our nose the entire passage and he was right!  We encountered 20-45 knot winds, 8-15 foot rollers spaced an uncomfortable 5-6 seconds apart, and unfavorable currents for the second half of the passage.  Many times, we took “blue water” over our bow and into the Portuguese Bridge with sea spray washing OVER THE TOP OF OUR BIMINI!!!  We are very happy to report that although we were uncomfortable, “Moana Kuewa” performed flawlessly (except for the continued 8kw generator failure – thank goodness for the alternate 20kw generator that allowed us to run the air conditioner while the seas pounded every door, hatch, and porthole)!  In addition, since we were not able to even microwave food; we lost the few pounds we picked-up enjoying the fresh lobster (purchased from the Kuna locals delivering the live lobsters by panga off our swim platform in the San Blas Islands).  Chris’ youngest brother, Jeffrey Cheske, joined us on 02FEB07 for a 13-day stay.  We plan on scuba diving, snorking, and touring Aruba, Curacao, and Bonaire.  Unfortunately, the unfavorable weather conditions are driving us to stay in marinas (really tough since the Renaissance Marina is collocated with two beautiful hotels offering three pools, private beaches, private island facilities, spas, Internet access, and daily views of a variety of cruise ships that dock less that 200 feet from our boat, etc.).  Since Jeff is single, he is enjoying other sights like the beautiful woman of Aruba.

• PANAMA CANAL (Panama) to SAN BLAS ISLANDS (Panama).  After east along the coast of Panama (again 6-15 foot waves with 15-25 knot winds off our bow), we arrived after dark in the Gulf of San Blas and found protection from the weather conditions in the Bahia de Tiburon (Bay of the Shark).  In finding this anchorage, our forward looking infrared radar (FLIR) really paid for itself when suddenly we saw three anchored sailboats 1 to 1 ½ nm directly in our path.  They did not have ANY LIGHTS or radar reflectors on the moonless night.  Seeing them with the FLIR allowed us reaction time to quickly avoid them, WHEW.  Ray & Mary remained with us until 26JAN07 and we enjoyed three of the fabulous 375 San Blas Islands; Eastern Holandes Cays (the “swimming pool”), Chichime Cay, and Isla Porvenir (the runway is ½ the island).  If you are a beach loving person, this is your heaven.  One island after another offered fabulous white sand beaches, clean blue water, and even a palm tree or two. 

• PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT (Panama) on 19JAN07.  What an interesting and challenging experience!  “Moana Kuewa” departed the FLAMENCO ISLAND at 0630 hrs with a eight-person crew (Mike and Chris, our friends Ray and Mary Cancel, and four line handlers).  At 0830 hrs, a Panama Canal Transit Authority pilot boat pulled up to our anchored boat and off-loaded two “Mates” (to transit the canal there is a requirement for a “Mate” or “Pilot” to guide any boat transiting through the canal).  We were the fourth boat to enter the first chamber of the Miraflores Lock (a huge cargo ship filled most of the lock, then a tug went against the west wall, a 80’ pleasure boat rafted to the tug’s starboard side, and then we were “squeezed” in between the pleasure boat and east wall).  This was a “hair-raising” experience because of the maelstrom of swirling water and 20-25 knot winds – we had a “near miss” between our starboard aft and cement wall (the quick response of the line handlers moving the protective tires saved a serious gel coat repair).  We had to repeat this process to enter the second chamber (this is where you viewed us if you watched the live video feed).  The Miraflores Lock raised us 54 feet.  Shortly after the Miraflores Lock, we entered the two-chamber Pedro Miguel Lock in the same configuration as the Miraflores Lock.  We faced the same challenges and this raised us another 31 feet.  The calm transit through the Gaillard Cut allowed Mary and Ray to serve a turkey & stuffing feast to all aboard.  We had plenty of time before entering the Banana Cut in Gatun Lake.  In response to the “Mate’s” request, we cruised at 2000 rpm for hours.  However, we became concerned when our stuffing box became HOT (we are talking to PAE about the possible cause) and throttled-back to 1500 rpm before entering the last lock.  Unlike the first series of locks, we were rafted to the starboard side of a tug in front of a monstrous car carrier in the three chambers of the Gatun Lock.  Although safer and easier, the chop created by the tug and lock’s normal raging waters still made for tricky navigation.  The Gatun Lock dropped us 85 feet.  When the pilot boat picked up our two “Mates” on the north-side of the Panama Canal, it was 1630 hrs and we were more than ready to find safe harborage at the Shelter Island Marina.  WHAT A DAY!!!              

  FLAMENCO ISLAND (Panama) to LAS PERLAS ISLANDS (Panama) to FLAMENCO ISLAND (Panama).  After our friends (Ray and Mary Cancel) flew in from Washington D.C. (to join us for three weeks of cruising) on 05JAN07; we toured the Panama City area, gave Tina McBride the remaining documentation that allowed her to complete our in-processing into Panama (visas, boat measurement for the canal passage, immigration documentation, etc.), and enjoyed the modern Flamenco Marina.  (We did not have to do anything ourselves! Tina met us dock-side within hours of arrival and managed EVERYTHING including providing a cell phone that works in Panama and transportation.)  

  On 07JAN07, the four of us cruised for 6 ½ hours to the Las Perlas Islands where we dropped anchor on the northeast side of Isla Contadora.  This anchorage offered us some protection from the 20-25 knot NNE winds and 3-4 ft rollers, sunny/warm skies/water, and access to two nice resort hotels.  The next day, we cruised to the south coast of Isla Del Rey and dropped anchor in the protected Bahia Santelmo near Isletilla de Rio Limon.  If you like remote unspoiled beauty, this is the place for you (uninhabited black-sand beaches, natural river walk, a few native iguana hunters, interesting morrows, limited snorkeling, etc.).   Due to the prevailing 20-30 knot winds, we remained at this anchorage for the next five days enjoying great conversation, good food, and exploring in the tender/kayak.  After another stop in Isla Contadora, we made a night passage back to the Flamenco Marina on 15-16JAN07 (just outside of the marina “Moana Kuewa” was passed by the Queen Mary II Cruise Ship – what a classic ship – one of the nice surprises during cruising).

      

• IXTAPA (Mexico) to FLAMENCO ISLAND ( near Panama City, Panama).  “Moana Kuewa” completed the non-stop 1551 nm cruise (total of 4703 nm on the boat), by departing IXTAPA at 1330 hrs on 26DEC06 days and arriving at the Flamenco Marina, PANAMA at 1000 hrs on 05JAN07.  For the first five days, we enjoyed cocktails, most meals, and saw three “green flash” sunsets on the flying bridge (top deck) due to the fabulous calm seas and mild winds for the first five days.  Conditions significantly changed around 0300 hrs on New Year’s Eve when we had a “steady blow” of an average 25 knot wind from the N-NE (yes, we did encounter “puffs” of wind up to 40 knots), 8-12 foot white-capped waves, and 2-3 knot unfavorable currents.  These conditions continued from 114 nm off of the “Gulfo de Tehuantepec” (Mexico) through 0400 hrs on 02JAN07 47.8 nm off “Cabo Blanco” Point (Costa Rica).  “Moana Kuewa” was constantly bathed in sea spray.  This forced us to close all the portals, hatches, and doors.  Thank goodness Mike had the foresight to install a second 8kw generator (in addition to the normal 20kw generator).  This allowed us to watch every episode of “Commander and Chief” (on DVD), dine, and navigate in air-conditioned comfort (burning 1/3 the diesel that the 20kw would have required).  Although we had to really “hang-on” whenever we ventured off our behinds, these two days were acceptably comfortable and we felt “safe” the entire time (no leaks even when a wave would crash into us abeam). 

  Technically, the boat performed well.  Christmas Day, we cleaned the sea-chest strainers, watermaker filters, and changed the John Deere main engine oil/filters (this was after a gorgeous 5-mile run and breakfast in an open-air seaside restaurant).  The third day into the cruise, we lost all internal water pressure and had to replace the Headhunter Mach5 water pressure pump (Mike lost 3 lbs during this exercise).  Two days before our arrival, our 8 kw generator overheated and automatically shut-down every time we tried to use it.  Throughout the cruise, there were the ever-present two slow main engine oil leaks and one transmission leak.  Plus, we were able to fix diesel fuel leakage from the top of both the port and starboard viewing scopes (our fault for trying to save a few $s by filling-up for the first time in Ensenada verses Dana Point).  One of our two autopilot pumps is not operating and there is a bubbling oil leak from the top of one of the valves (the same one ALCOM fixed before we departed Dana Point – ALCOM )

  We are very happy to tell you that PAE and ALCOM responded to our urgent request for support for the aforementioned problems.  Through FedEx, PAE sent a replacement water pump and additional fuel filters; ALCOM sent a new autopilot pump and arranged to have a local Panamanian company diagnose, repair, and test the autopilot systems; and our responsive agent (Tina McBride) arrived dock-side at the Flamenco Marina with all the FedEx packages (a couple of hours after we arrived in Panama – they were held up on customs until Tina resolved the problem – she really works “magic”).  We also found Inrepsa, a local Northern Lights/Lugger dealer to assess the problem with our 8kw  generator.  They discovered one of the aluminum support bolts in the alternator split in half allowing the battery feed electrical wire to flail about until the electrical current arched, shorted, and shut-down the generator.  After the installation of the new alternator in San Blas, we now know the alternator may have contributed to the failure but was not the core problem.  The 8kw shut down after one hour of operation after we departed San Blas.  The next Lugger dealer is in St. Thomas...we'll fix next month

   
• Holiday Greeting from Ixtapa Mexico: To all of you that remembered last years Holiday Greeting to visit this website, in lieu of cards, thank you.  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the Crew of Moana Kuewa.  We are having Christmas in Ixtapa enjoying 95 degree weather with sun and fun.  We depart for Panama tomorrow, 26 Dec 2006 - as soon as we clear customs - and will have a 1500 NM cruise to Balboa, Panama - the mouth of the Panama Canal.  This should take between 9 and 10 days, depending on how much downwind surfing we can do - and if the "current gods" are with us.  It will be the longest single cruise to date.  Hopefully, we will beat our friends Ray and Mary Cancel to Balboa scheduled for the 5th of January.  After we link up, refuel, change oil, and clean all the salt off the boat; we go to the "Las Perlas Islands" for some real cruising.  We expect to transit the Panama Canal on the 17th of January all all who would like to can see us go thru - via the WEB CAM the canal authority puts up.  When we have an exact schedule we will post the expect times.  FYI - the web cam site is  www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html .  (If this doesn't work exactly - go to the www.pancanal.com and look for multi-media and canal web cams.

• After the Panama Canal transit (which takes one day) we plan on cruising to the San Blas Islands on the East/Caribbean side of Panama.  Ray and Mary will be with us thru the Islands and will depart back to the US - as we head for ARUBA to meet Christine's youngest brother, Jeff for scuba diving in Aruba, Curacao, and Bonaire.

• For all you Nordhavn site-watchers we have 3200 NM's on the boat and we have not had a major failure - until TODAY!  The MSR Atlantis Head - clunked during flushing and then DIED!  (It may be asleep but is not responding to yells, cussing, or gently movement of its' little arm.) We suspect an electronic board failure - but didn't feel brave enough to disconnect and pull the head - as we are departing tomorrow for our 1500nms.  The better part of valor says to wait until our next port of call where a Raritan dealer is located - sort of let them do the dirty work, if necessary.  We have checked the Raritan website and Saint Thomas is the next distributor/dealer in our path.  That's ok, because Captain Chris is going to take the course for her "Captain's License" during March 3-11.  This is will give her plenty to do, while Michael checks on both the Las Vegas bungalow and the Hawaii condo, not to mention him doing the taxes and his doctor things.  FYI - to those who call our CELLS.  We depart tomorrow - 26 Dec, and with our Verizon phones, we will not have service again until 1 Feb, when we arrive in Aruba.  Please use emails chris-mike@moanakuewa.net, or to our Cherokee emails if you know them.  FYI-we have officially joined Milt Baker's Mediterranean transit scheduled for the end of May 2007. 

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• Mazatlan to Ixtapa, Mexico: Mazatlan: Departed Mazatlan early 20 Dec 2006 - headed for Ixtapa.  Don the weather Man had forecast terrible conditions, but buoyweather and NOAA had moderate 5-8 foot swell with winds 10-15Knots, for 48 hours.  Not that we shop for weather like we do Doctors, but Don has given us less than on-spot weather 2 times prior so we went with the other 2/3 sources.  Clearing the Mazatlan harbor was a treat - little maneuver room so we had "water over the bow" and since we couldn't turn for a mile or so we had confused seas breaking over the walk-around bridge and onto the side of the Pilot House.  Oh yea...this is fun!  Mike got everything set for the course and Chris took care of the lines and bumpers.  A wild first 30 minutes. 

• We had "turbulent conditions" for about 4 hours, and then things started to settle down - to 4-5 swells, following seas, and 12-16Knots of wind.  Other than the wallowing around - the ride was smooth and of course the "surfing" was resulted in 1450 RPM - doing 7.5-7.8Knots.  The ride continued to soften and by day 2 of our 500nm journey to Ixtapa, it was smooth as glass, with a slight swell from behind...just our type of swell.  We arrived ahead of schedule and had to slow down to 1200 rpm (still doing 5.8-6.0 knots) so we could arrive in Ixtapa in the light of day, and of course after 8:30 AM, the unofficial start of the day in Mexico. 

• Ixtapa Marina is the best Marina that we have stayed in.  It is pretty, efficient, calm, and oh yea, clean by anyone's harbor standards.  We have been to quite a few Mexican towns, but we now have a new favorite.  We like the "old & new" of "Ixtapa & Z-town".  It has our vote for the best place to stay - and cruise to.

• La Paz to Mazatlan, Mexico:  Captain Christine will be making this entry - as she is now going to take over command of the website and become the keeper of the word!!  We spent Thanksgiving week with our long-term friends, Jack & Judi Graser; at the El Cid Marina, Mazatlan, Mexico.  We had a GREAT TIME on the boat and exploring Mazatlan (by land and by sea).  Hope everyone reading this had a FABULOUS Thanksgiving.

• Ensenada to La Paz Mexico:  We completed the cruise from Ensenada to La Paz which added 900+ NMs to our now grand total  of 2400NM's on the boat.  As we departed Ensenada harbor we went to Coral Marina to fuel up our tanks.  They had never been filled before, as Mr. Thrifty (ME) was looking to save $1.25 per gallon over the Dana Point price - so neither main tank had ever been filled past the 500 gallon level, or in short up to the top of the glass sight gauges.  Each tank holds about a 1000 gallons of fuel, so there never was a need to have that much on board.  However, it might have been practical to see if there were any leaks in the new boat prior to leaving Dana Point.  As we were filling, I kept checking the sight gauges etc, and discovered that the Port sight gauge leaked at the top as we were filling it.  The sight gauges can be isolated by shutting off fuel to them, so that temporarily stopped the leak.  My plans were to tighten up as we were under way.  I switched to fill the starboard tank, and guess what - it leaked in the same place even worse....but the shut off to the sight gauge would not shut off the fuel to the sight gauge.  (I'm not sure anyone had ever tried to do it - and it had probably been installed for at least a year). A bucket under the sight gauge was set up to catch the drip.  Once underway, with a pretty full boat, - (careful how you fill - alternating between the two tanks - when they are both empty - will prevent the boat from looking like it is going to tip over -- 1000 gallons, @ 7 lbs a gallon -- doesn't take long to realize that 7000lbs on either side will cause it to list severely) I went about the chore of trying to fix the valve on the starboard side and to stop the leak at the top of the sight gauges.  The port side responded with a couple of turns on the attaching bolt - but I had to do it incrementally so as not to strip or damage the connections. (just what I didn't need ...a raging fuel leak into the boat).  The starboard side was problematic.  I surmised the fuel shutoff to the sight gauges had never been exercised and through opening and shutting it about 50 times, and testing, I was finally able to get it to seat properly and shut off the fuel to the sight gauge.  Then I started to crank the bolt down to tighten the connection itself. Same issue, not wanting to ruin it, I took it in half-turns for each test.  After three days - I finally got the leak stopped and all was back to normal.

   

• We had no other problems, especially engine & transmission leaks until we arrived in the La Paz vicinity.  The same symptom that we had prior to our "real seal being replaced" happened again.  Black drops of oil coming out of the flywheel area.  Albeit, we only have 4 or 5 black drops of oil in over a 1000 nm's, I'm of the understanding that there shouldn't be any.  I will contact PAE for guidance to see what the appropriate action might or might not be.  Jef Appel, 5503 indicates he had some of this when his boat was new, but that it went away!  No other mechanical problems surfaced.

•  Cruise down Baja was like glass - and was without a major incident.  There were however, large clumps of Kelp floating about for the first several hundred miles, easy to dodge during the daylight hours but impossible to see at night, even with the FLIR.  I don't think there is any temperature difference with the water therefore making it undetectable.  Needless to say, we must've hit a clump or too, because the boat felt a little different - and upon Captain Christine's inspection of the bottom when we arrived at a nice bay south of La Paz, we had kelp hanging on both stabilizers, and a small amount on the driveshaft, none of which seemed to interfere with operations, but might have disrupted flow a bit.   Easy to remove - send Capt Christine down with tools, and she had it all fixed in 15 minutes. 

• We visited Isle Partida for a few days and drug some new fishing gear to get the feel.  Captain Christine, again is the fisherperson, and was enthusiastic in her first fishing effort.  She put out both the big rig, and a small bottom rig (although we trolled).  She a couple of hits, and finally on the small rig pulled in about a 2 or 3 lb tuna. As I removed it from the hook, I tossed it back, and was immediately chastised for releasing her prized catch. I learn quickly, so about 30 minutes later she caught about a 5 lb 18" tuna, and we of course kept it.  She cleaned, and I BBQ'd enough fish to keep us in fish tacos for 2 days. (So it wasn't that small).  Although she only got to fish a couple of hours she at least caught fish.  More to come on this I'm sure.

• After staying in the vicinity of La Paz, we finally pulled in to the "Bellport-Costa Baja" a new marina by the PEMEX plant.  A nice new marina with an adjoining hotel.  The people are nice but it is quite a ways out of La Paz.  I believe it's about a $15.00 taxi ride to town.  The fuel dock is superb, and the reported surge in the Marina seemed to be negligible at the time I was there.  Captain Christine is taking care of the boat, as I'm in Washington D.C. on business for the week. When I return Sat 11, Nov, we are to spend a couple of days in La Paz, and then off to Mazatlan for the next month.  Friends, Jack and Judi Graser from Naples florida are coming for Thanksgiving week, and we have some short business in Las Vegas to take care of.  We will be in Mazatlan until mid December, and then down the Mexican coast, all to get ready for a long haul directly to Panama.  We are trying to arrange for a 15-18 January Canal passage, after spending a week or so in the Las Perlas Islands.

• WHAT DID WE LEARN OR RE-LEARN:  (1) Don't be cheap with a new boat - go ahead and fill all fuel tanks to ensure that the boat doesn't have any leaks, (2) No matter how many FLIRS, Radars, and Watch Standers you have, STUFF will hit the boat or get caught on the huge TRAC stabilizers, Prop gear, and or Rudder. (3) Be prepared for #2, and have a quick way of getting in the water to fix.  (I like Brownies Third Lung egressor , 6 cubic ft, system - light, fast, and easy to don to get quick underwater jobs done with minimal effort), (4) Getting a floscan "calibrated" takes an iterative and drawn out set of tests and adjustments.  If you have one installed, ensure they start the process at DAY ONE, else there is no way it will work correctly when you leave the harbo

• WE HAVE DEPARTED DANA POINT--WE ARE IN MEXICO 20 Oct 2006: We'll the small list of items to be finished on the boat just wouldn't go away.  Essentially, Calibrating a Floscan, 2 transmission oil leaks, two engine oil and 1 coolant leak.  Unfortunately one of the engine oil leaks was a "rear main seal" which was estimated to take three days.  This was discovered on the last day of our 5 weeks we had scheduled for warranty work.  Getting past our disappointment in not being able to go to Mexico, Brown Engineering completed the rear main replacement in two days, after a weekend and 3 days of waiting on parts.  We waited another week for "floscan parts" and in short never did get it completely calibrated.  I felt brave and after a short tutorial by Russell the expert at PAE, we blazed off into the night headed to Ensenada - with me doing my "fuel burn - calibration test".  (more on this when I get it "perfect")

  We left Dana Point at 1730 hours, heading for Ensenada with the RPM set at 1415 to get a constant cruise burn for 20 gallons.  It was one of the best nights we've ever had on the water.  It was essentially like a lake and even though we were at a low RPM we were consistently 6.8 K boat speed thru the water and 6.9-7.3 GPS SOG.  We had a following wind - little or no swell and it was quite warm for an October in California.  Uneventful passage, except neither of us could stay inside during the passage - out looking at stars, other ships etc. We arrived at "Cruiseport Village" a new Marina in Ensenada at 12:00 noon.  The new marina is adjacent to the Cruise Ship slips and very convenient to downtown.  I hear from all boaters the new marina has significantly less surge than Coral, the traditional premier spot in Ensenada.  Jerry the Marina boss guided us through the process of Mexico in processing and personally drove us to to the visa and immigration office.  He knew everyone - which allowed us to be finished in about 15 minutes and he then drove us around Ensenada to show us the view and better places to frequent.  

  There are 3 other Nordhavn's here and we had drinks on our boat with Bill & Linda  Edwards from "Wayward Wind" a new 43.  They had friends with them Paul & Brooke Bordewich - coincidently Paul and I were flying helicopters in Viet Nam during the last big offensive (Lam Sanh 719) and were in the same active spots for that fun event. ("6 degrees of separation is alive and well")

  We are on a day or two weather hold as there is Tropical Storm "Paul" ripping up the Mexico coast with winds up to 80 mph.  Not our idea of a smooth sail.  We could probably depart Ensenada Monday - and would most likely avoid the storm - if it didn't turn North West.  The "IF" part of that teaches us to sit tight - and wait to see it rain on New Mexico or Texas prior to heading south.  So more Tacos in Ensenada - not to mention beer.

  One note about equipment - some of you have tracked our changes to the boat and upgrades.  I wanted to report on the changes we made during the last 6 weeks and how they have made our life much better.  Sorry no pictures this time.

  (1) FLIR - Forward Looking Infrared Radar.  We can't see with 50-60 something eyes at night especially with the glare of the pilothouse lights and glass.  We saw 5510's operate at DP and we thought it might make our life more comfortable.  The cost about $7K, plus installation.  (If you had it done with the rest of the install they wouldn't have to re-run everything).  The results are in - it is now my most favorite night time instrument - it literally turns night time into day time.  We've used it twice during darkness and once had an opportunity to see it in heavy fog.  We still don't know the "real range" of the thing - but on the open ocean with no moon - only stars you can see a horizon.  You can see birds fly in front of you and things in the water at some distance (person paddling a surf board, small boat, waves, and anything that produces heat - body, engine, light from some distance.)  I would like to say that we can see a couple of miles with it but I'm unsure of how high an object has to be to see it.  Our FLIR is mounted on top of the Bimini so it is at least 35 feet in the air.  Example - took a run out 5 miles from DP to dump tanks at 5 AM, and then turned the boat around to go back.  Could see each individual house (heat source) on the hill up from the marina (Estimated to be 100-300 feet in height).  But we could see them in the dark!  The visibility at night (in the marina) with heavy fog is estimated to be about 300-400 feet, at least in the Ensenada marina.

  (2) Canvas shoe rack to hold the shoes. Brad Wolf from Sea Wolf made it.  It hangs behind the Davit support on the wall - all behind the salon door when you open it.  Really an organizer - and cheap.

  (3) Lot's of shelves.  Outbound Yachts put them in for us.  We put them in every available place in the forward bilge area.  The place is now full of spares, plus several cases of TP, Paper Towels, Filters, Water Softener filters/salt, and oil/fuel filters.  This is a life saver.

  (4) We also broke down and covered the Davit and the Aft Teak rail with canvas.  It's just too hard to keep clean and maintained without the cover.  In the case of the teak coming - it prevents line chaffing and gouges from gosh knows whatever.

  New Lessons Learned or RE-Learned:

  (1) Forget a schedule

  (2) Check thoroughly after every repair - including items that are near the repairs for alteration, foreign objects, and settings.  (you may even pick up a few free tools). 

  (3) Learn where the FOG Button is on your ICOM VHF!

  (4) Take a memo pad and turn on your RADARS, PC Plotting software, and all programmable instruments (AIS, SC50, Autopilots, etc) and go through EVERY MENU AND WRITE DOWN EVERY SETTING after your electronics installers finish.  IF SOMETHING DOESN'T WORK, pull out the memo pad and CHECK EVERY PARAMETER for CHANGE.  A corollary to this lesson is;

  (5) Ensure you have written down the primary feeds for instruments and the secondary feeds of information - and more importantly how to switch them from the primary to the alternate.  I.E. when the SC 50 radar compass dies, how do you get GPS data to your radars? If the SC 50 really does go - how do you switch the autopilot to a backup "steering compass", like the fluxgate(s) that are somewhere (ours our in the MSR).  In short, if you have a backup - how do you get to it so that everything works - or at least as much as possible works. 

  (6) Wonderful cruising people are everywhere.

• TWO TRIPS COMPLETE - WORKING ON 3RD:   We have a small list of items to be completed on the boat, but